John
1948 posts
Joined: 28/05/2006 16:49:46
Location: cambridge United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Dodgy fuel gauge
it should be spi, mpi/twinpoint came in in 97. iv never changed sender so cant help u there. hopefully somone can clarify as injection mini's have an electric fuel pump cant rember if its one in tank or i might just be talking rubbish.
Posted: Oct 24, 2007 12:56 PM
m. russell
18 posts
Joined: 07/10/2007 10:57:07
Location: west lothian United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
tank swap possible/
anyone able to tell me if its possible to just exchange my spi fuel tank for a mpi tank as they look identical.its just im finding it almost impossible to find a pump and sender for the spi.there seems to be more on th likes of e-bay for the later mpi than my model. advice greately appreciated.
Posted: Feb 18, 2008 09:03 PM
relay and fuel tank query
can anyone please help me?need advice on whether the relay that sits on top of servo from a mpi can be put on to my spi.also is ti possible to swap over a fuel tank from a mpi onto my spi.its just that theylook similar andim finding it difficult to source a fuel pump and sender for my 1995 cooper spi. thanks in advance to everyone for any help/advice. mark
Posted: Mar 12, 2008 11:43 AM
a. mericanminifreak
183 posts
Joined: 02/11/2007 23:17:14
Location: rosbach v.d.hohe Germany
weber and fuel...
Does anyone know if a spi mpi fueltank with pump is enough for a weber 40? or do i need more pressure? if i do what fuel regulator would i need and how much pressure should be deliverd to the weber?
Posted: Apr 25, 2008 10:24 PM
Tom_P
1 posts
Joined: 25/11/2014 21:13:14
Location: bury st edmunds United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
big problem with my little mini
i have had the whole engine reconditioned and rebuilt and a new gearbox with it aswell. (i have a 1997 rover mini 1275 MPI) i have refitted the engine and had it running since. It ran out of fuel but i have had it running again since then but now it has developed the problem where it will start and run then conk out after about three seconds. Fuel feed seems to be fine it has a good spark so it seems and i changed the fuel pump relay, however it still has this problem and i have spoken to many people but they seem to have no idea if anyone could help it would be much appreciated.
Posted: Jul 14, 2015 04:56 PM
Bren
Joined: 06/08/2005 00:57:30
Location: Clarksville United States
98 Mini MPi Fuel Delivery Issue Questions
Vehicle: 1998 reg. Mini 1.3 MPi I have been told by my less-than-highly reputable shop that I have a fuel delivery issue. I had the Mini professionally BG fuel/air flushed and the injectors are suspected to be good and the valves are clean (This Mini was stored for six years without the fuel flushed/stabilized). Compression is also good and equal across. Deciphering the fuel pump pressure, I think it is supposed to be apprx. 40 lbs/sq in, Im not sure, though (Workshop Manual shows 3.0 ae 0.2 bar constant, whatever that means). Mine is currently running around 30 lbs/sq in. and makes a high B Flat whine audible from inside the vehicle. I pulled the tank and pump out a few nights ago to check for deposits on the pickup filter bag and all seemed fine. I dropped a few drops of oil into the inlet of the pump and ran it on the bench for a few seconds to try to lube the pump (removed the bag and reinstalled). It didnt seem to be making the B Flat noise on the bench, but I guess that is just resonance from it being mounted to the tank, tank mounting to car... It seemed to run a bit better for awhile but still pops/loss of speed, at hard acceleration or cresting a hill/downshifting. Since the symptoms did seem to lessen a bit after the fuel pump lube job, Im leaning towards replacing the pump. Everything except the price. So, I am looking for the cheapest fuel pump that I can find (WFX100810), new or used, especially if the pump isnt supposed to whine or 40 lbs/sq in is supposed to be what it should be pumping. I have also been told that the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) (MLZ100090) is the main fuel/air sensor feeding info to the ECU, I might be interested in replacing this, as well. What type of fuel should I be running in this thing? Again, the Workshop Manual says, 95 RON minimum - UNLEADED fuel. US Octane grades are generally: regular (usually 87 octane), mid-grade (usually 89 octane) and premium (usually 92 or 93). I guess RON doesnt equal US octane numbers. Ive been running mid-grade, simply because I didnt know and I assumed a 98 reg car would be either mid-grade or premium. I have been running premium for the last couple of days with no notable change in running quality. Troubleshooting work to date: New fuel filter, new Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor, New Air Filter, New NGK plugs, Oil change/filter, BG Fuel/Air Induction Service, removed and cleaned: Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor, Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor. A used ignition coil pack/leads and new Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor are due in for fitting and further trouble shooting. So, any leads on a cheap fuel pump (if it’s replacement seems valid) or Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) would be appreciated and any ideas of the fuel pressure for a 1.3 MPi in lb/sq in or fuel octane to use would also be appreciated. I’m getting ready to go back to Iraq and I would sure like to have this thing running right for the family to use while I’m gone. Thanks for any assistance in advance. Bren. Bren Workman Clarksville, TN 37042 (931) 906-0391 (h) (931) 217-0812 (c)
Posted: Sep 10, 2005 03:43 PM
pickme
672 posts
Joined: 08/09/2004 23:10:14
Location: Chippenham United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Relay
Basically, it sounds like you have a primary power loss, so you need to look at these areas. Not sure whats on an MPi mini but start at the battery and move forwards via the battery, the battery clamp, battery cable clamp on the starter motor, primary power supply to the fuse box, power supply to the ignition key position 3, power from the ignition key position 3 back to the starter solenoid to switch the relay, power from the fuse box through the fuses to the engine management relay box and the mems unit itself, power supply to the fuel pump, etc etc etc. To start with you want the to hear the fuel pump at position 2 and the starter motor at position 3. From there on, hopefully it should be straight forward.
Posted: Jun 23, 2005 09:42 PM
mark
397 posts
Joined: 18/08/2005 14:01:28
Location: Hitchin United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Please help!
bad news, the fuel pumps are different for SPI and MPI, and they live inside the tank, and cost £240 each......
Posted: Jul 03, 2007 03:42 PM
Jeffrey
10 posts
Joined: 05/03/2005 07:26:29
Location: Seattle United States
thinning out
Some friendly advice: This is A Very Bad Idea. If you continue with this, you are going to spoil your car. Everything under the bonnet of an MPi does something quite necessary. You cannot remove any tubes and breather pipes without negatively affecting both the performance AND emissions. You might disconnect something here and there...and the car may still run, but you will NOT improve anything. Instead you may create problems which will be expensive to repair, or may forever plague both you and any subsequent owners of the car. Tampering with the wiring in any way is also not recommended. Electrical problems on a car as complex as the MPi can be extremely difficult to sort - you certainly do not want to CREATE any by messing about with the engine bay wiring harness. There was a time when manufacturers did indeed tack on all sorts of things to satisfy the emissions regulations - things like air pumps, gulp valves, and loads of vacuum lines. That was back in the 1970s and 80s. It doesnt work that way anymore. Fueling and ignition are controlled by engine management systems that eliminate the need for all the power-sapping kit. Everything under the bonnet of an MPi is there for a reason that goes well beyond the emissions. There are loads of legitimate mods you can do on an MPi - the K&N filter, or a Pipercross induction kit, larger injection throttle body, etc.
Posted: Apr 21, 2005 08:54 AM
not starting/fuel pump/engine relay?
hi, can anyone give me advice,the problem is i have a 1995 spi cooper which has stopped starting,have sourced and replaced fuel pump.also replaced engine relay although i think its from a mpi and not sure if they are interchangeable.when turning ignition i no longer get the whine and shut off from the pump even after replacing.if i pour petrol manually into bowl engine will start for short period.is there anything i should be checking?
noticed today that a wire connection from the loom that goes to the block to the left of the distributor has corroded.can any one tell me what this is?is it crankshft sensor?would this effect my starting problems?thanks to all in advance and any advice gratefully appreciated. mark
Posted: Mar 27, 2008 07:03 PM
Not getting fuel?
have you got muck in the fuel tank that is travelling down the fuel line
when the tank gets low, or runs out of fuel, it drags all the dirt down the fuel lines and causes havoc, the spi and mpi minis have filters as the fuel comes out of the tank, a wise move.
always worth checking the quality of fuel coming down the fuel line, draw some off before the lift pump into a milk bottle and examine it
Posted: Dec 13, 2007 07:51 AM
Gudmundur Bjornsson
Joined: 14/04/2013 11:43:19
Location: Mosfellsbaer Iceland
MPI wont start after rebuilt
hi
just rebuilt my 1998 MPI completly but it wont start. Motor turns (starts), fuel pump works but injectors dont nor is there any spark. Read somewhere that maybe the key rermote hat to be reprogrammed after x period time of duty??? the immobiliser works (I think) cause when i press the "open" button the relay clicks and the red ligth stops flashing and the engine starts. And if I press "close" the relay clicks and the alarm goes on when I try to start the car.
Any ideas?
GB
Posted: Jul 15, 2015 11:48 PM
Neil
28 posts
Joined: 11/02/2005 07:20:41
Location: Chichester United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
PLEASE HELP.... temperature sensor fault !
Hi John,
The SPI Map sensor is in the ECU and therefore there is a vacumn pipe from the manifold to the ECU. Yours is an MPI and the MAP sensor is in the Manifold and electrically connected to the ECU. I would not expect the ATS sensor to (relatively) make much difference to the running. (see previous reply).
The MAP sensor is the device that determines the engines fuelling requirements by feeding into the ECU manifold depression which is then turned into injector duration. Difficult to test other than by substitution, but if you have the equipment you can remove the sensor from the manifold, and connect via a tube to a vacumn pump and guage, and as you vary the vacumn you should see engine rpm rise and fall. This is crude but will at least prove that the ECU is responding to sensor input. (I believe that the MAP sensor is fed back into row B, ie centre row, pin 6 of the ECU connector).
ps How did Lucas change their view from Temperature sensor to MAP sensor. I really think you need to find a specialist who understands the MEMS unit. It's not rocket science but you need to know your way around.
Posted: Mar 08, 2007 08:36 PM
Claireyb1
8 posts
Joined: 02/09/2005 21:07:24
Location: Hayes United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Problem with fuel pump?
I wonder if anyone can offer anymore advice? My Mini Cooper 1.3i mpi 1999 wouldn't start yesterday.This was totally out of the blue as I had been driving it about earlier that day with no probs.It turned over fine but just wouldn't fire up.I called the RAC who sprayed some of that carburetor starter spray stuff and it started.He said it was probably my fuel pump.It has been fine since,no problem with starting. I'm taking it into a garage to be looked at,but am I right in thinking the fuel pumps on these are in the petrol tank? Are they more expensive because of this? what would be a reasonable figure to be charged for the replacement of the pump etc?
Could it be anything else? blockage,injectors????
Any advice would be gratefully appreciated.
Thanks.
Posted: Mar 29, 2007 07:22 PM
Fuel delivery problems?
Hi I wonder if anybody can shed some light on my "MINI" problem?
I own a 99 Cooper 1.3i. (MPI)
About 5 months ago,all of a sudden after using my car to drive to the shops it wouldn't start when I went to drive home? upuntil that point had no problems.
It was turning over fine.I had to call the RAC out and he said it was my fuel pump. He got me going by sprayign some of that "start" spary,and off I went.
It has been absolutly fine up until now.
It has decideD it won't start again.The same issue as before.
I have had it looked at,but it was fairly inconclusive as to what the problem was/is.
I'm taking it in to the garage tomorrow (not working) to see if that can give them a better idea as to what is going on.
Could it be the relay??
Any thoughts would be appreciated
Posted: Aug 14, 2007 10:56 PM
little mini big bass
Joined: 23/09/2006 22:01:20
Location: United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
New guy
hello all, im new to the site and world of mini's. always loved them and im about to buy one very soon
i wondered if anybody could help me out, being new to the mini models etc i need some help
i would like a 1993/4 mini, but i want to put a newish mpi engine in and run a 5 speed gearbox, what mini would i be able to get these from? also what extra parts will i need like ECU, fuel pump etc? and does anybody know what insurance group the mpi engine comes under as i will have to claim on insurance and being 17 its a tad high these days
and am i right in saying they are austin mini's but around 95 they were overtaken by rover only to die out in 2001?
thanks for all your help in advance and for taking the time to read this
Callum
(hopefully this has been posted in the right place, if not could the mods let me know by pm? thanks)
Posted: Sep 23, 2006 10:26 PM