Gerry
5 posts
Joined: 28/06/2005 16:40:50
Location: Chester United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Slight 'Click' when rolling car backwards & forwards
Im fairly good at mechanics but new to Minis. I get a mechanical Click comming from transmission rolling my car backwards and forwards. Ive looked underneath and the rubber cross trees are OK near the diff. So I assume its whats called the CV joints. If I buy the joints in the Mini-Spares shop for 997/998 cooper (which my 1964 car is) what else should I have on hand when I do the job. I dont want to find Im a circlip missing and have the car off the road for days while I wait for it to come? Ive got most tools you would expect, do I need anything special to do the job? Help please.
Posted: Aug 20, 2005 01:52 PM
Steve
25 posts
Joined: 27/11/2005 10:35:52
Location: northwich United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
re
I have used the "pickle fork" several times to remove the inner cv joint and it works very well, you will only need to tap it though as they tend to release very easily and yes you will need to drain the oil.
As for the top arms the bearings are almost impossible to remove without a special tool, hovever I have done a few recently and have developed my own method. Please note this is NOT the correct way to do it but works nine out of ten times. Once you have removed the shaft it is sometimes possible to "drift" the bearing out by using an old screwdriver from the opposite end of the arm and belting it with a big hammer, this can quite often result in all the needle bearings falling out just leaving you with the remains of the race still firmly stuck in the arm, if this happens you will need to extremely carefully grind the race down one side with a dremel or similar until the metal is thin enough to allow you to prise it out. You have to be careful when doing this so as not to damage the seat for the new bearing. I have done this on both of my minis and it has worked fine. Re-fitting the new bearings is a simple case of squashing them in in a vice. Make sure they are straight though or you can damage them.
Posted: Apr 18, 2011 08:27 PM
james kirkby
1 posts
Joined: 12/08/2012 19:50:13
Location: solihull United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
cv gaiter
hi
how hard is it to change the cv gaiters and do you need any special tools
thanks a lot
Posted: Oct 09, 2012 04:47 PM
ShinyShellback
15 posts
Joined: 21/02/2008 19:02:36
Location: NORWICH United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
CV Joint Boot fitment
Just fitted two outer CV joints & new rubber boot.
With both drive shafts out; the nearside shaft is recessed at a point where the boot sits naturally. The offside shaft is considerably shorter and the recess point is much closer to the hub resulting in this boot being concertinaed-up when compared to the NS. This drive shaft doesn't have a waisted point to take 18G1243 removal tool either.
You only really notice the difference when you lay them together.
Is this right or should I let the boot find its natural resting length which would mean clamping on a larger un-recessed part of the shaft on this side?
Posted: Nov 03, 2014 07:01 PM
Tim
1851 posts
Joined: 18/10/2004 09:40:59
Location: Bournemouth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Need to remove inner CV joint
The inner cv joint is just held in place by a loose circlip, and can be pulled out by hand, usually, or levered out with a piece of wood, long screwdriver etc.
The upper arm bearings are another matter, as you have to take the tension off the spring first using the proper tool, then remove the pivot by undoing the big nut at the rear end and sliding it towards the front of the car and out. It only goes in one direction, and depending on which side you're working on you will find it awkward because of the brake pipe union on the driver's side, and the radiator and engine mounting on the passenger side! Frankly, it's easier to do with the whole subframe assembly off the car.
Once the arm is off, just push the bearings out.
Make sure the grease nipple is working before you put the arm back. These bearings should last forever normally, and the only reason they fail is because of lack of grease.
Posted: Apr 18, 2011 09:09 AM
Batmini
168 posts
Joined: 11/03/2007 10:47:54
Location: Kidderminster United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
mayfair brakes.
If you're handy with a spanner and have the tools then this job isn't too bad. I assume your mini is on 12 inch wheels, so this should keep the cost down a bit.
You would be best off buying 12 inch disk assemblies which should have the right cv joints, hubs, disks and calipers. Then get yourself a haynes manual to show you how, with the aid of a ball joint splitter, you take off your old hubs.
Buying the panels for doing the sills and steps will be fairly cheap, about £50-£100 depending on genuine or copy panels being used. The expensive bit is getting them fitted. Expect to pay in the region of £300 or more for someone to fit and paint them.
Rear subframe not too bad. Haynes manual again, Tank out, Wheels chocked then jack up rear end. Disconnect handbrake cable, brake pipes and shocks at top. Spray releasing oil over front bolts of subframe (just in front of rear wheel). Support subframe on jack, PRAY, then remove front and rear bolts for subframe (8 bolts). Replace bolts for stainless type and replace subframe rubbers (only a couple of quid).
Posted: Feb 20, 2009 05:47 PM
faultymonkey
6 posts
Joined: 30/09/2008 20:45:09
Location: St Albans United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Loud screeching/grinding noise coming from front left wheel, cv joint?
Hey all
My 1989 Austin Thirty Mini has is making a really loud screeching or grinding type noise when driven, coming from the front left wheel. I reckon its the cv joint as the previous owner mentioned it was on the way out when he sold it to me.
It screeches when driven in a straight line, gets louder when turning to the right and sometimes disappears completely when turning to the left. Ive also noticed the left wheel occasionally stops turning with the engine and I get a slight jolt when it re-engages again (big problem!)
Can anyone confirm that it is the cv joint before I start pulling things apart. Also, does anyone know roughly how much it would cost a garage to fix this as I need it doing quickly and probably dont have all the right tools with me at the moment.
Cheers
Sam
Posted: Nov 17, 2010 11:19 PM
teabag
Joined: 28/09/2006 10:21:57
Location: Bedford United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
HELP! Front Hub nut
Hi,
I recently had the mis-fortune of having a bottom ball joint go, whilst on a corner. Looks like its trashed the hub.
My car is a mini based kitcar, which uses a mini front subframe at the front (and another one at the back with the engine in it).
So, the hub does not have a drive shaft attatched but it does have half an outer CV joint for the hub nut to tighten onto.
My problem is, that even with the hub very tight in a vice, I cannot get the hub nut off. Any ideas, tools, bodges I can try. (its a disc brake hub),
Paul
Posted: Oct 03, 2006 02:02 PM