Tim
1851 posts
Joined: 18/10/2004 09:40:59
Location: Bournemouth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
alarm
Can't you just lock it without setting the alarm?
Posted: Mar 11, 2011 08:36 AM
EMC-Craig
2 posts
Joined: 16/03/2007 07:45:12
Location: Basildon United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
MSSK2001 & MSSK2003 Alarm and Central Locking
I brought both these kit a while back now and have them both set up.. But i can't get the alarm MSSK2003 to unlock the central Locking (MSSK2001) am i missing something else?
Posted: Aug 11, 2007 02:53 PM
1981Mini City Owner
1 posts
Joined: 24/05/2007 19:07:58
Location: Market Harborough United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Locking wheel nuts ! Help
I had the same problem when i got my mini the previous owner had also lost the key to the locking nuts all i did was got an old ratchet bit set and hammered them on then took them of then through away the ratchet bits because the locking nuts will be stuck in so don't use new bits! i used 16mm and 5/8 to get mine off. Hope this helps
Posted: Sep 30, 2007 09:37 PM
ALEX'S'30'
10 posts
Joined: 19/07/2008 12:59:42
Location: BILLERICAY United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
New wheels/tyres
The minilite, ultralite styles in 5x12 will fit fine with 165/60x12. Just tried a set on my '30' my mate bought for his cooper. The wheel & tyre packages seem good value and come with wheel nuts, locking nuts.
Posted: Nov 02, 2008 05:55 PM
Gaz
50 posts
Joined: 16/02/2006 16:06:42
Location: albrighton United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
re:
I had the same problem on my car mate after fitting 'S' front disks. Isolved it by fitting a tilton adjustable brake bias valve. this enables you to set the amount of pressure sent to the rear brakes or in extreme cases lock them off completely, i'm sure you can even get a remote adjustment cable so you can tweak the brake balance from inside the car. They are available from demon tweaks
Posted: Nov 11, 2008 02:16 PM
Minimad
47 posts
Joined: 28/02/2005 17:58:43
Location: Bristol United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Gearbox Problem
I have just rebuilt an A+ gearbox new bearings and layshaft. Set preload on mainshaft as per figures, and now 3/4 gear baulk rings are binding causing gears to almost lock together. Gearbox was in exceptional condition and fine before i got my grubby hands on it. Can anyone shed light on this problem for me. Thanks
Posted: Jan 18, 2006 08:45 AM
Keith
173 posts
Joined: 13/09/2004 07:56:05
Location: United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Brake limiter
I initially set the adjustable limiter so that the rea wheel can just be turned by hand when an assistant stamps on the brake pedal. best to have too little braking on the rear than too much to strat with. Locked up rears will cause the car to spin if not careful. KC
Posted: Feb 11, 2006 09:12 PM
John
1948 posts
Joined: 28/05/2006 16:49:46
Location: cambridge United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
squeaking brakes
sounds like ur brake pads are too close so are rubbing getting hot and so loosing there braking power and also squaling, best set the pads less tight just enouth so they dont rub. alternativly keep ur foot on brake pedal as ur going alog for a bit to wear them in, but be warned if ur brakes are too tight and they get hot the wheel can simply lock up completly iv seen it happen after my m8 ajusted his mini's brakes.
Posted: Jun 08, 2006 06:39 PM
Jake Holmes
172 posts
Joined: 14/02/2009 21:39:11
Location: Walton on Thames United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
re
Does oil on the friction linings cause drag? I would have thought that would cause slip, course i may be totally wrong. What clutch do you have? I know there's a throw out adjustment on both types with different methods for setting, wrong adjustment can cause drag. Verto there's a clearance to set, non verto there's some awful vague instructions about pushing the pedal down screwing it in and then struggling to lock the two nuts together without moving it, (do i sound frustrated?).
Posted: Oct 02, 2010 05:44 PM
Peter
11 posts
Joined: 13/10/2004 21:44:55
Location: Brightwell-cum-Sotwe United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Adjustable brake limiter
Hi Simon , There is no substitute for setting it in the middle and testing it on the road until you eliminate rear wheel lock up. I am not sure about the big cylinders as I use the small bore ones to reduce the pressure at the rear , but this can all be dialled out with the adjustable valve.Hope this helps. Peter Horsburgh
Posted: Feb 11, 2006 06:51 PM
Chris L
3 posts
Joined: 30/10/2005 09:04:18
Location: Winsford United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
13" inch wheels
I have just bought a set as you describe with low profile tyres. This is to keep the overall diameter the same. also the gearing and speedo. You will also need the Group 5 wheel arches as the tyre protrudes about 4 from the body. they look awesome when on. A friend said that apart from parking there should not be a problem. Road holding should be improved. However, there is a drawback.The front wheel arch has to be re modelled to allow the whells to clear the body when turning. I have recently fitted new wings and front panel. The wings are fine but where the front panel part of the wheel arch meets the wing it has to be cut away. I have cut off a taperfrom the wing down to the bulge where the bumper fits from nothing to about 1.25. The wheels will now clear going from lock to lock. Dont know about much else as it is still being restored. Re spray next year.
Posted: Nov 16, 2005 05:53 PM
J. Clarke
Drums to discs
its really not needed, just because modern sporty cars use front and rear discs doesnt mean a mini would gain anything from them. from when mini was first built they had problems with too much brake force at the rear they had to fit pressure limiters to prevent them locking and use smaller brake cylinders. in minis about 80% of the braking force is reqired at front and 20% rear, so uprading rear wont make virtually any differnce to braking force. with modern cars with better weight distributions they end up more balenced at about 60:40. anyway, well serviced rear drums work give more than enouth brake force even for racing minis. ajjust the ajjuster on each drum until it just stops spinning then back off slightly. for front mini 8.4" discs are not bad if discs and pads are ok if they are pitted and rusty at edge they wont be very good. luckly new ones are cheap and easy to fit this kit http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?pid=36970 is a good one, includes kevlar pads which dont fade like stock pads with heat. if u want even more braking power ever fit vented metro calipers or vented 4pot alloy ones but your talking £360 and it really isnt nessary for all but fastest minis. if u did really want mini discs kad supply a set up dont expect them to be cheap iv not looked but id expect around £600 if uv got that money to waist go for it u wont stop any quicker tho. if ur car pulls to one side under braking ul need rebuilt caliper on the side it stears away from.
Posted: Jun 02, 2008 04:41 PM
Sprite brake bleeding
Possibly you've got one of those dual circuit brake systems and the rear end has been locked out. I'm not sure of the technique for re-setting it - maybe someone else can shed some light.
Posted: Nov 14, 2011 09:02 AM
Rob
34 posts
Joined: 17/09/2004 20:29:45
Location: Wellingborough United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
diff problem
I built up a new cross pin diff with the output shafts/gears from my previous diff, which were undamaged in my diff disaster. Could it be that the old output gears were so badly worn that they just cannot mesh correctly with the new planet gears. I cannot beleive that this could be the case as surely there would be too much slack in the diff when assembled rather than it locking up? I had 2 other sets of output gears laying about the garage and they all look exactly the same. So, my point is this...have I assembled the new diff incorrectly or do they have to wear in with use. I dont want to put the engine back in the car and then find I have to take it straight back out again as the missus is getting fed up with taking me to work at 6 oclock in the morning every day. Please help Rob
Posted: Aug 17, 2005 10:45 PM
Mininova
8 posts
Joined: 18/10/2004 13:42:58
Location: Worcester United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Flywheel stuck on!
Im trying to remove the flywheel from the A+ engine in my mini, and its well and truly stuck on. So far the flywheel puller is bending, and Ive turned a socket set extension banana shaped whilst trying to tighten up the puller even more…. Have also tried shocking the flywheel off by hitting the centre bolt of the flywheel puller - all to no avail. The puller is definetly lined up properly on the end of the crank, and the flywheel bolt and locking nut has been removed. Am I missing a trick here? Does anyone know of anything else I could do? Cheers Guys, have tried the wood idea but unfortunately it didnt move, but I have got a lovely pile of kinderling, going to try the heat approach next.
Posted: Aug 18, 2005 11:50 AM
M. Willcox
17 posts
Joined: 19/04/2006 18:46:39
Location: Nailsea United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
still having problem with brakes
where would i be able to get one from and how would i fit it and set it up,
i managed to get the brakes to kinda work, if you tap the brake lightly the apply like normal it works fine but if you just apply the brake hard the backs lock up!!! and the rear brakes are adjusted perfectly also when bleeding the front brakes the pedal gets sticky and you have to lift the pedal to help it back up
Posted: May 10, 2006 08:31 PM
LewisCr125
136 posts
Joined: 13/04/2006 17:03:39
Location: Old Knebworth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
7 x 13 Wheel Conversion
I think they'll only rub on the bulkhead if the suspension/subframe is out of line. My mate has a set and only has that trouble on 1 side. But it only happens on full lock.
The 13' wheels do look pretty good on the mini's. But them being soo wide is going to act like a big lever on the suspension parts. You may experiance premature wheel bearing wear. Oh and the low profile tyres will make the ride even worse than it is now. Also I believe mini's handle better on larger profile tyres. Aids as suspension as the mini suspension might as well not be there.
Posted: Mar 15, 2007 08:27 AM
Disc brakes
yeah if u set it up right it will lock mine will soon lock up its standard just have to findle with the ajjusters for a bit. discs by nature are designed to resist locking thats why they were invented to prevent planes wheels locking on landing. they give good braking this way as when the brake locks ur tires acts as the brake instead not good unless ur trying handbrake turn but they have little use in modern racing.
so luke ur brakes all working good now im glade to hear, it cost much to get them skimmed?
Posted: Mar 18, 2007 01:03 AM
Roy
261 posts
Joined: 19/09/2005 19:34:20
Location: huntingdon United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
tools
you forgot that wonderfull cure-all, WD40! And yes, all of the nuts and bolts on my later model (1990) mini are metric! I have a metric/imperial 1/2 drive socket set,8-30mm,1/4-1,1/4 courtesy of halfords, cheap, but has not let me down yet in 10 years ( my first one got nicked out of the garden shed!). I also have another 3/8-1/4 drive socket set (again metric/imperial) that goes from 19mm down as small as 4.5mm which is very handy You may well have to buy a separate 32mm socket for wheel hubs as most sets only go up to 30mm. you will also need a comprehensive set of screwdrivers, pliers, side cutters, circlip pliers(internal & external), mole grips (self locking pliers), hacksaw, junior hacksaw, soft faced mallet, hammer, various punches and, most important, a multimeter. this still only makes up a basic tool kit but enough to get you started. happy tinkering....
Posted: Dec 02, 2005 10:04 PM
michael
79 posts
Joined: 02/03/2007 23:58:38
Location: Carpi Italy
ok thanks i will try this set up on my mini .cheers
Posted: Nov 02, 2008 06:08 PM