Andrew
3 posts
Joined: 15/07/2005 15:21:30
Location: Whangarei New Zealand
Poor braking
Could be your flexible rubber brake hoses. If they get a bit old they can balloon making the brake pedal spongey. - it may be that the servo used to keep pressure on so the problem wasnt noticable. Or could be that youve got a small leak somewhere - check all the bleed nipples and wheel cylinders on the front and back, as well as the flexible hoses. If shes been sitting for a while it could also be a seized rear brake cylinder so you may want to check those for operation.
Posted: Feb 09, 2006 01:28 AM
John
1948 posts
Joined: 28/05/2006 16:49:46
Location: cambridge United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Loud creak/squeal on pulling away from stop
nuthing pulls them back thats why disc pads are always just touching the disc as u go along. when ur pressing the brake pedal then the pressure pushes the tow pads together clamping the disc. what pads have you used some pads are prone to sqweeling eg green stuff hence why they normally come with stick on rubber backing to stop this iv heard people say blob of copper grease on back of pad gainst piston does dame thing (dont let it get on pads tho).
Posted: Jan 24, 2008 03:02 PM
Barry Brown
511 posts
Joined: 23/06/2008 12:08:31
Location: New Barn United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Double Pump Brake Pedal
If you changed the master cylinder and the wheel cylinders and have the shoes adjusted correctly and the problem only goes away for a short while then perhaps you have a soft flexible connector. Over a period of time they go soft and can 'balloon' when the pedal is pressed. The only way to see this is to put the car on your mechanics ramp and then stand on the brake pedal while they inspect each flexible hose in turn. Just occasionally a piece of rubber peels off the inside of the hose and acts like a flap valve and gives you a bad bleed.
If a hose (or two) is ballooning then it gives the feel of a spongey pedal. If it is acting as a flap valve either it won't bleed cleanly or when you hit the pedal it is solid but the car doesn't want to slow on the affected corner. you need a rolling road brake test to find that one.
Posted: Dec 11, 2014 02:21 PM
DTarkir
1 posts
Joined: 27/01/2008 05:20:44
Location: Manassas, VA United States
Unipower pedal pads
I am putting my 1967 Unipower Gt back on the street in the next few weeks. The brake and clutch pedal rubber pads are worn out and I have not been able to find replacements. The pads measure 2 1/4" (57MM) wide and 2 7/8" (72mm) tall. They have a logo on the front that is a verticle and horizontal cross spelling WATEX in both directions. On the rear They are labeled Waterford Watex.
Any help is greatly appreciated
Dennis
Posted: Jan 03, 2014 05:09 AM
Zogle
43 posts
Joined: 06/12/2004 22:21:54
Location: Wigan United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Few problems
Hi everyone I just need a few problems solving, and thought I might as well kill a few birds with one big stone. First. There is a knocking when I accelerate, and then when I lift off. It does this in every gear, and also over big bumps. It doesnt happen as soon as I touch the pedal, because if, for example, I accelerate slowly in 4th, there is no noise, and the knock happens at a certain point. What could this be? p.s. I have already replaced my engine mount bushings. Second. I have noticed that my car is quite loud nowadays, especially under acceleration. I think this is most likely to be the exhaust. I know that the bracket holding it to the gearbox has broken. Is this likely to be where the break is? Third. Carburetter dashpot. According to the Haynes manual, you can tell the oil level in the dashpot by taking the sort of dipstick thing out that goes into it. Problem is, there is rubber in the dashpot that smears it all. How can you tell for sure, and how high should the level be over the ufo shaped dish on the stick itself? Fourth. When I last came to check my air filter, it was absolutely coated. My engine up until that point had started to stutter when it needed power. I changed this and it seems to have sorted the problem, but someone has told me that the filter will just clog again if the main problem isnt sorted. He says this will be a clog in the breather pipes going into the bit below the air filter. Is this right? Thats it for now. I might have one more but ive forgotten it for now. If you could help, that (obviously) would be very helpful. Thanks
Posted: Mar 23, 2005 09:45 PM
Alex
129 posts
Joined: 20/10/2004 23:06:00
Location: York United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Water leakage
Since i got my mini i have never had carpets in them and i have chased water to the following leaks 1. Through the fresh air vents 2. Through the air intake pipe for the heater unit 3. A New hinge panel was welded on and water got between and rotted there the exisiting 4. Window Rubber 5. The welded seam that runs bellow the box section that makes up the pedal box 6. Belive it or not when i washed the car the water channel runnign across the back of the bonnet used to over spill and then water used torun down the back of the blanking plate for were the center clock would go i have curred all these and touch wood 9i have stayed dry there resont monsoons so i might get capet back.
Posted: Jul 06, 2005 12:28 PM
Tom
69 posts
Joined: 15/07/2007 14:52:33
Location: Southampton United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Fuel Problems! Please Help ASAP!!
Hi, today i was driving, and my capet got caught under my clutch pedal. i pulled over, pulled back the folded-over bit of carpet, and some bloke stopped, and said i've got a leak at the front of my car... i turned the engine off and had a look. at first, it looked like oil. i had a look underneath the car, and the sump was dry. It turned out to be Petrol. It was all over the subframe, and there was a puddle on the floor. I was coming from the metal pipe, that runs along the bell-housing. (the carb Breather pipe??) I removed the rubber hose that attaches to the metal one, and tryed to start. it wouldnt. i blocked the pipe and tryed to start. it did start, but was running so rich, it was missfiring due to flooding...
When i blocked the pipe, the fuel was leaking from the pot on the side of the carb, and dripping down onto the manifold...
What shall i do, to fix this??? Any help would be much appritiated. Cheers, Tom.
Posted: Oct 21, 2007 07:15 PM
Uncle-Gadget
27 posts
Joined: 12/06/2010 19:08:36
Location: Godalming United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
MOT test Car Weight ???
Hi Guys and thanks for the input.
The DVLA website says kerb weight plus 140KG fro driver, fuel and accessories. This still only makes 759KG ?
FYI all 6 (4 front and 2 rear) cylinders are new, as is all 4 rubber hoses, new shoes al round, replacement rear pressure regulator and all adjusted to the limit The pedal is very firm with very little travel, and you can only pull the handbrake handle two notches. All 4 wheels lock on the rolling road, so how much more can I do ?
Surely if the lock on a dry road, that is all the brakes you need ?
Posted: Mar 21, 2014 08:19 PM
Crashnburn1981
158 posts
Joined: 04/12/2004 16:50:02
Location: glastonbury United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
braking woes
Hello all,
Im having greif with my 1991 carb cooper, i was planning to have it MOT'd but the brake werent working well, so i changed all the rubber hoses for goodridge, rebuilt the brake servo, changed the master cylinder for another one, replced front subframe hoses, new rear brake cylinders,
now, they still dont work great,
if i pump the brake pedal, the revs rise a bit and then drop down, when i try to brake heavily, the revs drop off and then come back up,
im doing my nut here, someone please help/
Cheers Nick
Posted: Feb 09, 2008 04:57 PM
Lucas
19 posts
Joined: 23/03/2008 12:12:08
Location: Paull United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Advice appreciated :-)
Hi Guys,
Firstly thanks for reading this.. I would like to know how I can find the rubber grommet/ cover that goes at the bottom of my gear stick to stop the road being visable, The other thing is similar to another post I have just read, When I accelerate the engine is a bit intermittent like something is sticking, If i give it full throttle it generally slows the car down, I have to find a 'sweet spot' on the pedal to pick up speed and every now and again the engine kicks in and gives me a boost in speed like something has just become unstuck?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Luke
Posted: Mar 29, 2008 09:10 AM
Minimad
47 posts
Joined: 28/02/2005 17:58:43
Location: Bristol United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
mk ?
I have found this information for you, hey I was wrong what can I say it matters that little. Mk1 1959-1967 Mk2 1967-1969 Mk3 1969-1976 Mk4 1976-1984 Mk5 1984-1992 Mk6 1991-1997 Mk7 1997-2000 The Mini Mk4 1976-1984 The model line-up continued as before, but the following modifications were made: Front subframe was rubber-mounted Rear subframe rubber mountings enlarged Softer rubber springs were installed Twin column mounted control stalks fitted New switch panel with different style switches and hazard warning lights Larger pedals from the Allegro fitted The gutter drip rail was deleted and plastic trim fitted from 1979 Engines and transmissions are basically the same as for Mk3 From 1980 onwards, extra sound deadening material was fitted to the floorpan areas. Useful link:http://www2.bioch.ox.ac.uk/~jason/Welcome_Page.htm Hope this helps!!!
Posted: Apr 24, 2005 02:18 PM
cng1
Joined: 30/03/2005 09:07:52
Location: Ely United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
How to mod the distributer
Trigger wheel, EDIS kit, megajolt and some spark plug leads. You'll also need a couple of brackets but they are trivial to make for yourself if you don't want to spend money on them. Fitting the trigger wheel is the hardest bit, once that's done the rest is really easy. There are some good base maps out there so if you download one of those you're all done.
No more carrying spare points, rotor arms and dizzy caps, no more rubber gloves over the dizzy, just a gloriously happy and reliable engine. Oh and because your advance isn't horribly compromised on part throttle you need less pedal to get the same power so as a consequence you get better economy. What's not to like?
Posted: Dec 04, 2007 09:50 PM
jonboydavies
10 posts
Joined: 01/03/2005 12:24:50
Location: torfaen United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
mini value
Im looking to sell my mini in the near future but im not really sure of its value and i wondered if you guys could help. 1995 Mini Cooper Single Point Injection (SPI) Tahiti blue with white roof and bonnet stripes 64K on the clock with full service history Taxed till december MOTD till feb 06 Half leather interior Cooper door furniture Cooper pedals Walnut dash Cd player and standard speakers Standard alloy wheels Recent work carried out includes new inner sills new outer sills new a panels new front scuttle new rear valance {all parts have been painted and the car had been undersealed} new front knuckle joints new windscreen rubber rear 1/4 window rubber new boot lock new front trumpets new fuel filter new air filter new oil filter The number plate is N45 BUD which is valued at £250. The car sounds a little rough mainly because the exhaust is blowing but ive been told it would benefit from a professional tune up. The only other problem is that the car is currently letting in water which i believe is down to worn door seals (next job on the list). The only rust left on the car is on both doors and in time two new skins will be needed. I paid £2600 for it about 6 months ago and it now owes me £3700! so im looking to cut my losses and run as im an apprentice and cant afford to keep the damn thing! Any offers or advice on getting the best price for it would be much appreciated. Cheers everyone jon
Posted: Jun 23, 2005 01:05 PM
MINI FOR SALE!!!!!!!!!!!!1
Im looking to sell my mini in the near future. 1995 Mini Cooper Single Point Injection (SPI) Tahiti blue with white roof and bonnet stripes 64K on the clock with full service history Taxed till december MOTD till feb 06 Half leather interior Cooper door furniture Cooper pedals Walnut dash Cd player and standard speakers Standard alloy wheels Recent work carried out includes new inner sills new outer sills new a panels new front scuttle new rear valance new battery with 3 year warranty {all parts have been painted and the car had been undersealed} new front knuckle joints new windscreen rubber rear 1/4 window rubber new boot lock new front trumpets new fuel filter new air filter new oil filter The number plate is N45 BUD which is valued at £250. The car sounds a little rough mainly because the exhaust is blowing but ive been told it would benefit from a professional tune up. The only other problem is that the car is currently letting in water which i believe is down to worn door seals (next job on the list). The only rust left on the car is on both doors and in time two new skins will be needed. I paid £2600 for it about 6 months ago and it now owes me £3700! so im looking to cut my losses and run as im an apprentice and cant afford to keep the damn thing! Any interest or offers would be great Cheers everyone jon
Posted: Jul 29, 2005 01:23 PM