dave
3 posts
Joined: 02/08/2005 16:15:46
Location: southampton United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Swap 10' minilites for 12' minilites
Hi. I have a set of 10 minilites with falken 165/70/R10 tyres on all in excellant condition. I would like to swap them for a set of 12 mini alloys, must be in good condition with tyres that are legal for road. If anyone is interested email me on davidharper42@hotmail.com. I am located in southampton. thanks
Posted: Aug 09, 2005 11:28 AM
Swap 10" minilites for 12" minilites
hi, sorry for taking so long to get back but i was away for a few days. the rims are 5 inch wide (5j10) and are original as far as i can tell. they have mini stamped on and made in italy stamped on them.
Posted: Aug 25, 2005 12:03 PM
Stuart
243 posts
Joined: 17/05/2005 11:14:28
Location: Frome United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
minilite 13's - de ja vu?
Im sure some one has asked this before, but im too lazy to look for it. im currently running on 12 wheels, apart from arch choppin, are there any other mods i need to make to fit 13 wheels to my min? Cheers Stu
Posted: Nov 07, 2005 07:29 PM
Dave_Teesside
24 posts
Joined: 19/04/2005 13:10:47
Location: Stockton-on-tees United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
7x13' Minilite, Superlite, Ultralite, Deep Dish, non-Deepdish????
Can anyone explain to me the difference betwen the above types of wheel? I am wanting some for my cooper but cant tell the difference between them other than the ptice also, wheres the best place to get em from???
Posted: Nov 11, 2005 08:17 AM
Posted: Nov 11, 2005 08:19 AM
Emsley
16 posts
Joined: 31/05/2005 10:20:10
Location: Watford United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
7x13" Minilite, Superlite, Ultralite, Deep Dish, non-Deepdish????
Now we all know those 13 wheels look great, making the car look squat and mean, and you cant have too much rubber now. Can you? Dont do it!! I fitted 13x7s a few years ago, and have regretted it ever since. I do 25K miles+ a year, mostly motorway, and this is the single worst mod Ive fitted. Handly is crap. I darent use the inside lane on motorways ever, because of the ruts created by lorries, means the bump steer just wears you down. Ive made multiple changes to the steering geometry, and done all the things with poly bushes and the like. I can honestly say none of it comes close to running on 12 wheels, or even better to 10 wheels ofmy 1st mini. As soon as I get some cash together, Im going to fhit new wings, and try !2x6s. Im expecting a huge improvement. Forgot to add. The heavy and unpredicatable nature of those 13s meant that I broke my wrist driving the car along a bumpy country lane earlier this year. Nuff said on 13s
Posted: Dec 05, 2005 07:53 PM
minilite 13"s - de ja vu?
Posted: Dec 05, 2005 07:55 PM
J. Boulton
10 posts
Joined: 10/04/2006 09:54:07
Location: Tipton United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
minilites?
hi im thinking of putting some minilites to my magical mini but im wondering which ones would be best? i was thinking of 13*7" rims but i herd these may cause handling problems? i woukd prefer it for them to look stylish but also practical.
Many thanks
Posted: May 02, 2006 05:13 PM
Crashnburn1981
158 posts
Joined: 04/12/2004 16:50:02
Location: glastonbury United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
I have 13" by 7", and it handles great,
the odd tramline on bad roads, but nothing really. I love em but then everyone has their opinion.
Nick
Posted: May 03, 2006 09:46 PM
yeh thanks for that....i have brought 13 by 7" now and its just incredible how the car grips! thanks for the comment
Posted: May 03, 2006 10:18 PM
C. Barron
332 posts
Joined: 04/05/2006 21:28:31
Location: Mid Calder United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Porous minilites
I've got one set of original minilites. They've certainly seen better days but it won't take too much to remove the umpteen layers of silver paint !
The problem is they seem to have gone porous and the tyres go flat within a week. I'ld hate to lose them and have been trying to concoct remedies.
I'll start by shot peening them, and then I thought about painting some liquid rubber latex on the whole of the inside...but I'm just wondering if anyone else has had a similar problem and if there are any known reliable fixes ?
Chris
Posted: Jun 05, 2006 08:12 PM
John
1948 posts
Joined: 28/05/2006 16:49:46
Location: cambridge United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
probly need wheel lacar on, probly not giving tight enouth seal to tire, try getting some inner tubes maybe?
Posted: Jun 05, 2006 09:56 PM
<Homer Simpson voice> Innertubes !!!!!!!!!
Posted: Jun 05, 2006 10:17 PM
doh
so is that an aproval of the idea lol?
Posted: Jun 06, 2006 12:44 AM
131 posts
Joined: 18/02/2005 08:56:10
Location: Leamington Spa United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Good afternoon,
Loss of tyre pressure through wheels is usually the result of pitting on the inside of the wheels. Another reasons could be too much paint.
Depending on the level of corrosion, it can be resolved by rubbing down the inside with a wire brush and repainting a light layer. If however, this does not work then the wheels require replacement.
Posted: Jun 07, 2006 12:19 PM
mini247tom
35 posts
Joined: 25/10/2005 09:02:05
Location: Chatham United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Im having the same problem with my 13" rims one of them was leaking even after the tyre place sealed it, but then i over inflated it left it for a day then lowered the pressure and now its fine but i am going to get it refurbished just to make sure it stays that way
Posted: Jun 07, 2006 01:26 PM
Roy
261 posts
Joined: 19/09/2005 19:34:20
Location: huntingdon United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
If your wheels are truely porous then they should never have left the factory, more likley to be a sealing issue betwixt tyre and rim! removing the exess paint and re-conditioning the sealing surfaces would be the best option unless Very heavily pitted. too far gone and renewal would be the only option. wheel laquer would be only a temporary fix as laquer was never designed to be used as a sealant and would quickly fail under a combination of heat and pressure.
Posted: Jun 08, 2006 11:30 PM
If your wheels are truely porous then they should never have left the factory, more likley to be a sealing issue betwixt tyre and rim!
I'm not sure. newly sealed tyres go down quickly, with new valve fitted and so on.
The definitive answer has to be to get them shot peened and then seal them with something, but I like the low cost innertube idea very much.
It's not unusual for alluminum parts to go porous...Ford had cylinder head problems when their CVH heads which would go porous as soon as 50,000 miles, Fiat Punto alloy sumps are a classic case of something alluminium going porous, oil seeps through the metal...and the 'rock solid' range rover with a P38 engine is renowned for being impossible to repair once it's block goes porous.
These are original minilites, I don't know when they were introduced but I'm guessing maybe 20 years old ? They've done well to go this long !
Posted: Jun 08, 2006 11:46 PM
Okay I've done some searching, and have found the following, which may be of use to someone else with similar problems.....Apparently gravity cast wheels are more prone to porosity faults then negative pressure casting or pressure cast wheels. It's difficult to tell which you have by looking at them though.
<><><><><><><><><> START OF QUOTE <><><><><><><><><><><>
Porous wheels are so common that GM has published a repair procedure. Here’s what needs to be done: Remove the wheel and tire from the vehicle and inflate it to 40 psi or so. Immerse it in a tub of water and look for the bubbles. Mark any spot on the wheel where the bubbles are coming from with a grease pencil. Also, reference the wheel and tire so the tire can be reinstalled in correct index later. Let all the air out and remove the tire from the rim. Inspect the inside surface of the rim adjacent to any leaky areas. You may or may not see evidence of the porosities. Next, clean the leaky areas inside the rim with soap and water, and wipe off any remaining contaminants with brake cleaner or carb cleaner or lacquer thinner. GM calls for the use of a GM part-numbered sealer, but silicone sealer is fine. Cover the areas with a 1/8-in. coat of sealer. Allow the sealer to cure for an hour or so, and reinstall the tire. Check in the tank for bubbles again. If you reinstall the tire in index with the rim, you won’t have to rebalance
Posted: Jun 09, 2006 12:23 AM