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Time to arrange all those agonised over, carefully selected and applied suspension components to give of their best.

Suspension - Basic set-up method

part numbers: TOOL10, TOOL11, HILO, HILO-01

Time to arrange all those agonised over, carefully selected and applied suspension components to give of their best.

This is one of those subjects viewed as a ‘black art’, largely because of lack of understanding and confusion. The confusion part is because folk encompass the whole suspension set-up deal with suspension arrangement and design, lack of understanding instilling terror at the thought of ‘fiddling’ with the suspension components. The latter also fuelled by the knowledge that expensive specialist measuring equipment is needed. Well, there is no black art – you can work the magic. More a case of a long day...

SUSPENSION - Basic Priorities

Suspension - Basic priorities for improved suspension performance. Having studied the 'Suspension - Terminology' article you should now have a ‘job description’ understanding of previously possibly un-comprehended words associated with suspension control. Now - what to do with it? The first thing we need to establish is an order of priority before distributing hard-earned 'beer vouchers' in all directions. Fortunately, this is a good deal less complicated than is generally believed. Despite the five main factors that control the front suspension geometry – kingpin inclination, caster angle, camber angle, track, and bump-steer – we are only really able to alter three of those easily. King-pin inclination is non-adjustable, as it’s a feature of where the swivel-pins are mounted on the hub at the factory. It will alter as other adjustments are made, but we can do nothing easily about correcting/optimising it independently, as these are fixed in position on the swivel hub.

The Verto/Valeo type diaphragm included the pressure plate in its assembly, much like a 'normal' car set-up. The spring being of the 'finger' type as opposed to the disc spring used on earlier, three-piece assemblies. There were originally three diaphragm specifications using progressively stronger springs - small-bore, big-bore, and Metro Turbo. Later joined by the type used on the injection cars, though most definitely not interchangeable. Initially, the biggest problem was the Turbo ones were never really available on their own. If you wanted one you had to buy a whole clutch/flywheel assembly - the cost exorbitant. Rover originally believed that if the clutch plate was worn out, then the flywheel and pressure plate would be too. It has only been recent times that the diaphragm/pressure plate has been available on it’s own - but not until after the Turbo unit became unavailable. Even that has changed recently with the cessation of the Turbo diaphragm as a service part.

GEARBOX - Up-Rating Drop Gears

The standard drop gears are fine for practically all road use - almost irrespective of power output. part numbers: DAM9373, C-STR123, C-STR124, C-STR30, C-STR30A, C-STR30T, C-STR30TA, C-STR230, C-STR240, C-STR250 Terminology - Drop Gears - Transfer gears (primary, idler and input gears) Large-bore - Refers to anything based on a 1275-type unit Small-bore - Refers to anything based on 850/998/1098 units Despite what many folk believe - they are more than strong enough, and will perform perfectly well if correctly set up. That means getting the idler and primary gear end floats right, and using new bearings for the idler gear at each re-build. Simply following the methods outlined in the relevant workshop manuals will achieve these simple goals. There are two problems with standard drop gears - the main one is the helical cut of the teeth, the other a very limited selection of ratios. The helical-cut teeth are essentially power absorbing - both from increased metal-to-metal c

Gearbox - Up-rating diffs and FDs

There’s a good selection of straight-cut final FDs available. Examine the FD table, and using information from

'Gearbox - Final dives, standard' and 'Gearbox - Formulae for car speed, etc.'

you can assess which would best suit your usage. Bear in mind that they’re noisy, make sure you select one that’ll fit your diff unit, and also consider that using drop gears will allow fine-tuning of the ratio where necessary. See

'Gearbox - Up-rating drop gears'

Gearbox - Up-rating diffs, FDs and ancillaries.

part numbers: C-BTA166, C-BTA167, DAM6624, BTA101, 2A7062, DAM5071, DAM6027, RPS1418, C-AJJ3385, C-22A1731, ...Read more

GEARBOX - Limited Slip Diffs, what's available.

‘Salisbury’ is the word banded about by most un-enlightened folk when discussing LSDs for Minis, mistakenly believing the word covers all Mini orientated LSDs. This is grossly incorrect. Terminology - LSD - Limited Slip Differential The ‘Salisbury’ was designed in the ‘50s at a time when racecars were a good deal less sophisticated than today. Tyres were usually cross-ply with severely limited grip due to poor compounds developed ostensibly for rear-wheel-drive cars; the front wheel drive of the Mini being a rarity. And tracks were more than a little ‘bumpy’. Agriculturally built cars needed an LSD designed along similar lines; enter the Salisbury - effectively developed from a tractor diff. High static pre-loads were more than common to help compensate for severe short-falls in chassis, suspension, and tyre design. To all intents and purposes the diff was practically locked up, making the car a real beast to drive.

Establishing an accurate TDC reference point is of paramount importance when developing and monitoring ignition timing (and cam timing come to that). Terminology - TDC - Top Dead Centre BTDC - Before Top Dead Centre Establishing an accurate TDC reference point is of paramount importance when developing and monitoring ignition timing (and cam timing come to that). When an experienced engine builder assembles an engine - no matter whether for road or race - he will establish an accurate TDC indicator that can be used for ignition purposes. Usually contrived as a rigid pointer aligning to a corresponding mark on the crank pulley in a position easy to see with the engine installed. Unfortunately, many of us have to deal with engines that haven't had such attention to detail - so either have to make do with the standard ignition timing graduated scale if it's there or sort something else out.

Predominantly 13-inchers, but 12s as well, the main thrust of the questions being 'what do I need to do?'

This subject is a regular visitor to the message board and 'Knowledge' section of Mini Magazine for whom I write - fitting bigger wheels. Predominantly 13-inchers, but 12s as well, the main thrust of the questions being 'what do I need to do?' along with 'which wheel arch extensions will I need?' The answer has always been somewhat 'clipped' purely because of the space availability issues both in the magazine and on the message board, so something a little more detailed was required. Although the Mini suspension was designed around the use of 10-inch wheels with cross-ply tyres, a quick dash through history reveals that fitment of these bigger wheel sizes isn't a recent, 'modern' application.

Having applied Hi-Los and some smart 165/60/12 profile tyre shod12 x 5-inch ally rims, discussions get around to a subject that has cropped up a zillion times in the Knowledge, at shows, my e-mail address, etc. - just why does this combination cause the tyre to hit the front arch?

To be more exact - why does the tyre just rub, twang the plastic arch off, or foul the arch to the point of bending it? Even if the genuine, original fitment 'Cooper' alloy 12-inch rims are used with the 165/60/12 tyres? Well, it's all a question of alignment - either subframe to body or suspension to subframe. When trying to source/cure the problem, many folk have discovered that shim plates have been used between the front panel to subframe teardrop mounting and the subframe - and wonder if the car has been in an accident and been 'fudged', so could be causing the problem.

Instruction Sheet (Please read in full before installing anti-roll bar)

The mounting blocks are to be fixed at each end of the bar under the front of the subframe where there is a double thickness of metal close to the forward tie-bar brackets. Loosely assemble the blocks to the bar, one positioned between the locating rings - offer the bar up to the lower front edge of the front subframe.

Jack rear of car up, and place securely on axle stands, positioned to allow maximum access to rear subframe/rear radius arms area. Remove rear exhaust hanger to exhaust clamp or un-hook rubber loop on late type cars. Using suitable saw, cut off centralising tab from bottom center of subframe rear cross member. Remove rear wheels and brake drums. Remove upper most and rear most brake back plate to radius arm nuts and bolts.

FITTING INSTRUCTIONS

Mini oil pumps are susceptible to premature failure caused by excessive large particle contamination of the oil, mainly metallic debris created by the gearbox. The situation is not helped by the oil getting to the pump before being filtered. Mini Spares has developed components to help minimise this problem, including these in line magnetic oil traps. Their design allows easy fitment, as the adapter simply replaces the standard oil pick up pipe blanking plate on the back of the gearbox. It’s position in the oil supply gallery necessitates frequent removal of the trap to clean collected particles out, more so for the filtered version. Failure to do this will cause premature failure of the pump and possibly engine bearings.

There are no hard and fast rules for this periodic maintenance as vehicle usage will determine debris build up. Obviously a carefully driven road car will not need as frequent attention as a race car. Certainly clean it at e...

Fitting these brackets will add approximately 1.5 degrees of negative camber to whatever the current setting is, THEY DO NOT give 1.5 degrees of camber. The factory standard settings are quoted as 0.5-2.5 degrees.

After fitment it is imperitive to get the geometry checked, particularly the tracking, The ...

To facilitate full experimentation in this area, the MS73 kit has been developed to allow accurate adjustment of rear wheel camber AND track. Adjustment of rear track can greatly influence the handling characteristics of the Mini. For reference, toe in gives straight-line performance/stability with more rear end grip (under-steer). Toe-out gives over-steer in corners, and less stability in a straight line - particularly under part/closed throttle conditions. Simple and effective caster/camber and tracking gauges are available from Mini Spares (Tool10 caster/camber gauge, TOOL11 tracking gauge) to facilitate DIY setting of geometry.

Mini Spares has now further improved it's quality one-piece forged adjustable bottom front suspension arm to be on-car adjustable and accept all types of non-rod-end (Rose joint) bushings by including a purpose-forged trunnion.

Safety critical, the one-piece forging is of the highest quality; far stronger and with ultimate integrity compared with the now-ancient method of cutting/welding on of adaptors – a process that demands the most specialised equipment and skill to be sure of component integrity. Manufactured from a new forge tool, the bottom arm inner joint boss has been extended to accept a tube-nut adjuster that accepts the purpose-forged trunnion.

The tube nut allows easy adjustment of camber without needing to jack the car up and disassemble the suspension; the trunnion giving all Mini owners an option previously only available to racers – the capability of having fully adjustable suspension without the need to use spherical rod-ends. The trunni...

Suitable for all Minis with “dry” rubber cone suspension, including vans, Travellers and Riley/ Wolseley saloons. General Information

These specialized and RAC FIA homologated suspension components are designed to allow the ride height of all Minis with “dry” suspension to be easily adjusted. In addition, the diameter of the rubber cone support lip is larger than the standard cone to increase effective spring rate. This makes them suitable for fitment in all the following cases:-

ROAD CARS - For load carrying and towing to optimise handling and adjustment.

RALLY CARS - Increase height for rough forestry stages then lower for smooth tarmac.

RACE CARS - Stiffen and lower the suspension as far as possible but can still be raised for bumpy circuits.

Once again I found myself swamped with work causing the now familiar last minute rush to check the race car over before departing to Donnington. This race weekend was going to be a very different affair than what has become the norm. Karin was having to work the weekend, my 'opposition' in my class and in another Clubby - Steve (Young) - has resigned himself to doing the last race of the year at Oulton park due to work pressures, and stats man and hospitality provider Keith (Manning – now Otto v

Having put a season and a half of racing on these components I am suitably impressed. The bottom arm design is superb and the finished article extremely well made. The bushes are the icing on the cake.
Accurate suspension set-up is time consuming at the best of times, requiring dogged patience...

Mini Production dates

We have tried to get together as complete list as possible to show all the models made from 1985 onwards, hopefully this will help identify those cars that have been modified over the years. If you have any information that you know is correct or anything that you think is not right please let us know.

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