malc
1 posts
Joined: 28/09/2004 13:28:19
Location: bristol United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
clutch plunger
is there a difference in the lengths of plungers i have just changed the clutch on a 1980 mini but the release bearing seems to far away from pressure plate is the wrong plunger fitted the arm looks in good condition the gap between the bearing and pressure plate is about 3/4 inch
Posted: Sep 13, 2005 08:37 PM
ianswall
2 posts
Joined: 08/12/2005 17:29:36
Location: Brighton United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
clutch
on the verto clutch is there meant to be alot of movement between the plunger and the bearing. sometimes goes into gear sometimes dont. when clutch is releashed sounds like box of nails in the flywheel cover taken it off and alot of movement between plunger and bearing. clutch plate also moves should this wobble
Posted: Dec 08, 2005 06:32 PM
T. Perks
57 posts
Joined: 19/11/2006 09:21:16
Location: Wotton under Edge United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
clutch seized??
Undo the o/s engine mounting, remove the top and bottom if fitted steady bars, jack up the engine use bit of wood between sump and jack, undo ring of bolts around the clutch cover, now remove it undo the 2 nuts that hold the thrust bearing plunger remove split pin from clutch arm and pull out arm now plunger should be easy to remove if not give it a tap with soft hammer, if its all solid then this is your problem once removed clean cover out aplly copper grease and reassemble if this is not seized then proceed to remove flywheel and clutch assy, but ive never seen or heard of a mini clutch plate seizing yet!
Posted: Jun 05, 2007 12:05 PM
ITS ME
9 posts
Joined: 02/09/2005 22:30:33
Location: United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
c
did you check to see if you had a flat spot on your ball end on the cluth arm, and with the plunger ? no
Posted: Sep 13, 2005 08:45 PM
Tim
1850 posts
Joined: 18/10/2004 09:40:59
Location: Bournemouth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Clutch Stuck On - Won't Disengage - Can anyone help please?
I think Mark's problem is actually the opposite of what normally happens. His clutch is stuck in the disengaged postition, so the normal remedy of jacking up the front of the car, starting the engine in gear and jamming on the brakes doesn't apply.
The only thing I can think of is to check that the lever arm is actually pushing the throwout plunger in and (more importantly) out - if it's stuck in the "in" position obviously the clutch won't engage. It's worth spraying some penetrating oil and/or WD40 around the plunger. If the plunger is moving freely, then it sounds like some or all of the springs on the clutch cover itself may be broken, and you're going to have to pull the flywheel.
Posted: Aug 18, 2008 01:23 PM
Tom
69 posts
Joined: 15/07/2007 14:52:33
Location: Southampton United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
spluttering engine
i have the same problem, that has started to occur over the last week. my dash-pot oil plunger keeps unscrewing itself, and then the carb chucks loads of fuel in.. Any one have any ideas why it would do this??
Posted: Dec 29, 2007 05:39 PM
Rob
50 posts
Joined: 01/10/2005 23:57:53
Location: Bridgwater United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Gearbox help and advice manchester
if the noise goes away when the clutch is depressed it sounds like the thrust bearing on the clutch plunger, not overly costly to fix. unsure to the ease of 1st selection tho, i may be wrong..................
Posted: Jan 09, 2006 10:03 PM
diddi
37 posts
Joined: 13/09/2004 09:03:12
Location: St. Ingbert Germany
-
A blocked filter will not cause this prublem as it´s loketed after the pressure regulator and switch. If it would be a wiring problem, the light would not extinhuish with some more revs. This problem can be caused by either, a sticking pressure regulator, a bad switch, a worn pump or at worst, a worn engine (crank bearings). Sometimes, the pressure regulator plunger sticks partialy open allowing too much oil to drain back to the sump at low rpm. At 1st, you should remove the pressure regulator spring and plunger (large hex plug left of the dizzy below oil transfer tube) clean them and refit. Also replace the pressure switch with a new one (not expensive). If this fails, maybe you can borrow a pressure gauge with tubing and adaptor. Temporary install it to read the pressure. If it is too low, it will be an engine-out job to replace the pump and also check the crank bearings (main and big end). Diddi
Posted: Dec 05, 2004 03:47 PM
Paul
25 posts
Joined: 13/10/2004 20:07:25
Location: Rochford United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
thanks for all the replies lads. Ive solved the problem. The old release arm had broken of the little ball bit in the end and had been steadily creating a big groove which meant that when the new arm was put in, it moved within the little carrier thing. I think its the plunger. Cheers anyway : )
Posted: Jul 07, 2005 06:23 PM
croc7
Joined: 13/09/2004 18:16:02
Location: Tacoma United States
Oil pressure relief valve
I don't know what the spring rate is for that particular kit or the length of the spring for that matter but keep in mind that using a ball in place of the stock plunger (bullet) adds about .25" overall length and will be more difficult to install.
Posted: Apr 12, 2017 06:40 PM
Aldo Guerrini
4 posts
Joined: 15/11/2008 01:36:02
Location: Ravenna Italy
well i had the spring+ball oil pressure on a 1275 spi overhauled engine and the oil pressure was very high (more than 100lbs/ft @ cold engine) ! turned back to spring and plunger original kit and got acceptable values (65-70lbs/ft @cold and 55-60 @ warmed engine) In my opinion and I am not very skilled is not a very difficoult operation to carry out ... believe me if i made the grade you cn do as well ....
Posted: Jun 30, 2017 04:19 PM
I need some advice please
Do you mean the safety catch (on the right hand side of the bonnet) or the main catch (in the middle of the bonnet). If the latter, which bit do you need? There's the spring-loaded plunger bit that's attached to the lip of the bonnet itself, and there's the catch assembly that's mounted to the top of the front panel.
Posted: Mar 31, 2008 12:45 PM
Verto clutch
Have you adjusted the clutch release plunger correctly? There is a big stop nut on the end of the plunger that is designed to prevent you applying too much pressure, but if it's adjusted too tightly then the clutch won't disengage fully.
Also, of course, you need to ensure the hydraulic system is bled completely. Even a tiny bit of air in the system is enough to reduce the travel and make it difficult or impossible for the clutch to disengage.
Posted: May 09, 2020 11:30 AM
John
3 posts
Joined: 26/09/2004 21:28:07
No Clutch
Ive just fully reconditioned a 1275 Cooper s engine and had a similar problem. No Clutch. I would bleed the clutch to start off with. If that fails remove the clutch release arm and check for wear on the ball that fits into the release bearing plunger. If its worn (even a little) I suggest replacing it. Alternatively, bend the release arm in a little so that it provides more leverage on the clutch, if you get a little clutch then I again suggest the ball it worn.
Posted: Aug 31, 2005 10:06 PM
Mininova
8 posts
Joined: 18/10/2004 13:42:58
Location: Worcester United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Oil Pressure Warning Light
Oh joy, hope it isnt oil pump. Recently learnt that prev owner only ever used it for short (1-2 mile) journeys for about 5 years so with any luck its just spring/plunger parts are gunked up. Anyway, am in process of buying new bits inc spring & new switch - will get ball-bearing as suggested. Tried to have a quick look at it today but sods law dictates my socket set doesnt have socket big enough to take it out....doh.... fingers crossed................
Posted: Dec 09, 2004 08:52 PM
Palli
15 posts
Joined: 27/04/2006 01:49:17
Location: akranes Iceland
Clutch 101
Ah No hope. Is it possible that the Plunger, can get disconnected from what ever its supposed to be connected to. Inside the cover?
Posted: Jan 04, 2008 04:09 PM
Stuart
243 posts
Joined: 17/05/2005 11:14:28
Location: Frome United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Youll need to look in a haynes manual for diagrams, but what you need to do is get your head right in the engine bay and look down the left hand side at the flywheel housing, there should be two big bolts coming off the clutch plunger into the housing, you need to undo both of these, youll then be able to move the clutch. get someone to push the pedal right down and then do up the inner bolt, and then release the pedal, turn the inner bolt round two flats anddo up the outer bolt (this bolt just keeps it in place). then you should be right. if not let me know and ill do my best to help. Stu
Posted: Sep 29, 2005 03:32 PM
Dry Oil Filter
I didn't know the filter was horizontal on an spi! You live and learn.
Obviously, without the spring and plunger the oil will be bypassing the filter. This won't have done the engine any good if it's been like that for a long time but at least the engine isn't seized!
Posted: Jan 09, 2015 01:28 PM
Gear Shifting / Clutch
For some reason your message doesn't appear when you open the thread - I suspect a bug in the new software - it only appears when you post a reply.
The first suspicion has to be that you haven't bled the clutch hydraulics enough. Also, have you checked the throwout adjustment on the end of the plunger?
Posted: Oct 27, 2008 02:24 PM
Non releasing Clutch
Sounds like you need to apply a bit of grease to the plunger and all the linkages.
Do you have the correct return spring on the slave cylinder?
Posted: May 10, 2013 06:28 AM